Author Topic: Powering a Goto Mount  (Read 393 times)

Isaac Griffin

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2018, 11:41:13 AM »
If you are not shy about an easy diy project as an alternative to a booster/jump starter, here is an example;

1 - Apex 12v 35AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery (the battery is heavy, but has a handle.)
1 - Pulsetech Xtreme Auto Charger (comes with ring terminal quick disconnect cable to attach to the battery)
1 - Battery Tender 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adapter (for attaching your scope mount power cable)

Attach the ring terminal cable to the battery. Attach the Female Cigarette Adapter cable to the quick disconnect of the ring terminal cable. Done.  When you need to recharge, just swap the cable, since the charger uses the same quick disconnect plug. For me to purchase this in Utah in the US this would cost me $146.59. I couldn't find a booster pack of this capacity for anywhere near that low of a price. You get an excellent capacity battery, deep cycle so you should still have over 80% of full charge after 400 cycles if you keep the depth of discharge to 50%, and you end up with the bonus of an excellent charger you can use anywhere else you might need. (In addition to the ring terminal cable, it has a quick connect pair of clips as well) No superfluous gadgets, compressors, or other stuff. Simple and effective. I have two 22ah batteries I use with this charger, which gives me a tad more flexibility than the single battery, but this should give you an idea of what can be done.

Cheers

Leon Vale

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2018, 03:32:43 AM »
If the my booster will power say a kendrick hub, wouldn't I then be all set for power to the mount and camera?

Mike

Nathan Mayienda

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #17 on: January 21, 2018, 05:19:04 AM »
its a function of how much current average is used over time.  figure that '18AH' battery, if that's what your booster has, will run a 1 amp load about 10 hours. a 2 amp load about 5 hours.  you COULD go longer, but the battery won't last as long if you deeply discharge it too much between recharges.

piesilila

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2018, 01:00:10 PM »
How do you connect the battery to the mount's power cord? I have an AZ-EQ5. The power cord has a battery plug at one end. Don't you use a barrel connector with the boosters?

/Ira

therpomercu

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #19 on: January 23, 2018, 12:34:55 AM »
Ira,
I currently just have the booster, I have not come to a final decesion on my mount. I thought the AZEQ 5 power cord came with a "cigarette lighter" end on it that would plug directly into the booster. Did yours come with that or is it an option?

Mike

Cesar Rojas

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #20 on: January 25, 2018, 07:13:04 PM »
Quote
How do you connect the battery to the mount's power cord? I have an AZ-EQ5. The power cord has a battery plug at one end. Don't you use a barrel connector with the boosters?


whats on the other end of that power cable ?  Most mounts I've seen, one end of the power cable is the mount-specific connector (often a coaxial 'barrel' connector, note these come in a bajillion combinations of different size barrels and pins, and there's no standard for polarity although more often than not the 'pin' is + and the barrel is - these days), and the other end is typically a cigar lighter plug.

cigar lighter plugs are pretty awful, they aren't reliable as they are prone to coming loose. If I had a rig where I needed to power a bunch of different 12V things, I would probably put Anderson PowerPole connectors on everything, and have something like this on the battery box.


curnarenche

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #21 on: January 25, 2018, 09:42:31 PM »
You are absolutely right, Pierce...
those cigarette lighter plugs are exactly what they say. Not meant for continuous connections.
The tip of the + connector is round, so it covers a very small contact area... charring ending in a bad or non connection is very often the result. On top of that those central contacts are springloaded...
I really do not understand why so many astronomers still use those things. They are the cause of many problems.
Just use real power connectors, not a bad, not suited for the job, cheap substitute. It has to power very expensive equipment!

Richard Gayer

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #22 on: January 26, 2018, 08:32:05 AM »
Could someone tell or better yet show what a real power connector looks like?

Mike

rennlispuring

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #23 on: January 30, 2018, 09:15:41 AM »
Harbour freight 17AH battery...$49! Works perfect and a good choice. Don't buy anything rated in mAHR, they are usually calculated at 5v not 12. The Harbor freight 17AH battery is a no brainer really imo. I used it for my ieq45pro and camera.

Greg Quevedo

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #24 on: January 31, 2018, 12:40:27 AM »
Quote
Could someone tell or better yet show what a real power connector looks like?

Mike


that 'rigrunner' powerpole bus I pasted above has 5 powerpoles on it, each of those red/bkac connector pairs is one connection.  here's the powerpole you'd put on a cable to plug into it...


Eric Graf

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #25 on: February 02, 2018, 09:26:39 PM »
Examples:
http://www.neutrik.u...powercon-true1/
That is a very good main connector from battery to Powerhub, or mains to converter.
From power hub to equipment RCA plugs are great, like being used on dew strips.
The old fashioned banana connectors are perfect as well, just be aware of right polarity, because in the dark you do not see colours.
The ones showed above are perfect as well, but rigrunner is quite expensive.

The main thing to look for is a large contact area, unlike the tip of a cigarette lighter.

geblusandde

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2018, 01:35:25 AM »
There are many connectors available, you have to choose your preference.
I have to agree that cigarette type barrel connectors are a pain, however you must remember they come with a fuse protector behind that tip, so don't forget to put one in place on any connector wiring you decide to go with.
Here are some factors to consider when creating a power line for anything.

1. Positive connection... you want to know it is connected, this has been the big problem with 'cigarette' connectors
2. Ergonomics - the connector should be easy to plug and unplug while barehanded and while wearing gloves. Certain connectors are made to be 'permanent' or 'semi-permanent' requiring clips to be released. These are not good for field use. Why? These snaps and clips often break or weaken making positive connecting, disconnecting a problem.
3. Weatherproof - Even though it is a DC circuit, it is best to use weatherproof connectors and cables which can stand the extremes of heat-cold they may see.
4. Easily replaceable - Connectors which are unique sound great, but if you're on a trip or observing and have one fail you don't have the opportunity to re-order the same connector and get it there. Try to choose connectors which can be easily replaced at your local hardware store.
5. Failsafe protection and rated for use - make sure you have an inline fuse to protect your valuable equipment and make sure all connectors and wiring can well handle the voltage and amperage.  The last thing you want is to plug a cable in and it to heat up because it's too light-weight when drawing power. This is especially true for dew heaters and any power cords you may use with any accessory that may draw more than 3A.
The two pictures I included are widespread connectors in use and available almost anywhere.
Attached Thumbnails


plethenofin

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #27 on: February 08, 2018, 08:15:12 PM »
Quote
Hello All,
I am considering a SW AZEQ5 or 6 and I am wondering if it can be powered safely with a car booster. Is this type of power reliable enough to power the sophisticated electronics in a modern goto mount? I tried to include a pic but it was to big.

Thanks
Mike


Nothing is more reliable as far as clean power than a battery. Any battery. HOWEVER...the AC supply sold for this mount works just fine too. There is some onboard voltage regulation in the mount, I recall.

Gary Eldridge

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Re: Powering a Goto Mount
« Reply #28 on: February 09, 2018, 07:22:48 AM »
Quote
Good question!
I'd like to hear some pros weigh in on this. Most auto jump-starters use lithium ion batteries, as do most portable DC power sources not specifically designed to jump-start your car. I'm no expert on this issue, but I can share my experience.

I had a Celestron PowerTank. Fancy. 17amp/hour, USB charging ports, two flashlights (one red) even an AM/FM radio. Orion offers a similar unit. They run $150+, and I personally, think they are CRAP.

I like to research before I buy. I have a large family. A few years back, I decided it was time to "research" automobile jump-starters as it seemed like somebody was needing one at least once a month. Christmas was coming up, and I thought I'd buy maybe 4 units as gifts. My research indicated there was one particular model that seemed to be the top pick in every review, trouble is it cost almost $300!

Then I found the Stanley brand "Jump-It". They come in several sizes, but the top of the line (largest Amp/hour) could be found for under $100. Average discount price was about $90, and Walmart actually had them on sale for about $80. The Stanley units were always in the top 10 of any review, and often in the top 3. Seemed like the best choice, best bang for the buck, other than the $300 unit.

I am TOTALLY glad I bought those Stanley Jump-Its!

First of all, they will start your **** car/truck/boat/tank. Second of all, they will run circles around a Celestron PowerTank - IMO. I use it all the time. It only has one DC outlet, of course it has the cables, but they can be wound pretty tight and concealed on the sides with a little care... There is a flashlight, but I don't use it and it's not red. It does have a single USB charging port... No AM/FM radio.

The top model comes in two versions, one with a air compressor and one without. The difference being about $10. Here's the model number - I don't know anything about the "lesser" models, this is for the top gun:

Stanley JumpIt #J509 - No compressor
Stanley JumpIt #JC509 - With compressor.

I didn't buy these to power the telescope mount. I bought them for the family for their intended use. One night the Celestron PowerTank quit and I grabbed the Stanley out of the trunk...

Never looked back.

I actually don't know how long the Stanley would run a CGEM or Atlas mount. I've run it all night and the battery status indicator still says FULL. I've run it for three nights in a row, no charge in-between, and the battery status indicator still reads FULL. Try that with your fancy PowerTank! Ha!

If you need a radio while you observe, I'll gladly sing for you... "Ahem, When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, that's amore..."

Regards,
Mr. Joey


Most jump start batteries do NOT use lithium ion batteries, but plain old lead-acid batteries which work just fine.