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Topics - tioraigenroi

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I'm getting ready to buy a fixed length focal length eyepiece or two for use in both a 140mm-f/7 refractor with a 980mm focal length and also in a 100mm-f/9 refractor w/ 900mm focal length and in research "exit pupil" size is referenced. Is that the same as the size of lens of the eyepiece? Is there an optimal exit pupils size and if so how is that figured out?

thank you!

I have a 10in f4.66 that will be converted to a dob, and the new carbon fibre 10in f4 will be used as my main deep sky imaging scope and I will also use it viewing rich fields.I do have some coma correctors ,>> the old Lumicon CCFF is attached to my 48mm Lumicon EzyGuider>> a Baader MFCC>> a Tele Vue 2" tuneable top Paracorr ... a recent acquisition>> also have a 2in Tele Vue 2x PowerMate .... a recent acquisitionI'm thinking either Vixen SSW eyepieces (5mm, 10mm, 14mm these are all 1.25in) and maybe NLVW 30mm (2in)orPentax SMC in similar fls 5mm to 15mm as 1.25in eyepieces.I don't mind spending to get very good quality in my eyepieces which will have to do me out , it's taken me years to get to this point.I will likely want to try eyepiece projection once the scope and ROR observatory is installed.Til now my best eyepieces have been RKEs, these may be OK using the Paracorr on the f4.66 dob but I have my doubts about using these even with the Paracorr on the f4.Comments on my eyepiece choices for the f4 Newtonian would be greatly appreciated.

For a few years now, my trusty Star Adventurer has helped me take some halfway-decent images. I have yet again managed to save a little money, and I'm hoping to have about US$1500 or so in the next couple months. Well, actually, I'm hoping to have something like US$2000, but I will also need accessories like a power bank, possibly a used laptop, etc. etc., and I can't spend all of that on the mount. I'm interested in something like an iOptron iEQ30 Pro or Sky-watcher NEQ6 pro. I've heard good reports about both. I'd also think about an AVX, but I've heard a lot of the horror stories. And I assume that a Losmandy would be well out of my range.

A major limitation: I can't polar align (at least, not the normal way). I live in the northern hemisphere, but as I've mentioned elsewhere here, at the major location I image (my building's rooftop), a big building blocks Polaris and several degrees around it in every direction. I've managed to figure out pretty well where the pole is by using Google Maps and other tools, and that has worked quite well with my current setup, but I'm worried that a higher-end mount would be a lot less forgiving. Could something like PoleMaster or SharpCap obviate the need for alignment with the polar scope? (In which case, I definitely need to budget for such a device plus the stuff to run it.) Does the inability to sight Polaris mean I should just give up trying to use a better mount?

Another limitation: It can't weigh too much. I need to be able to schlep it up and down a couple flights of stairs by myself, since most of my astrophotography is from my rooftop these days. If it breaks down into easily-portable pieces, I can probably justify going up in the elevator and then up the stairs a few times, but I am definitely not as strong as I once was, so anything that weighs more than about 30 lbs. per component is probably too much. Less than that would be nice, really. (I used to heft my Skyquest XT6 up and down stairs to go out observing, but that is not something I want to repeat if possible, especially not multiple times per observing/imaging session.)

And one last limitation: Saving this much has already been kind of a stretch, so please don't say "Just spend $X more than you've budgeted for and get this other really nice mount!" I know that there are much better mounts available for much more than I have, but it's been difficult to save even this much, so I need to work within this budget.

Are there mounts that will work with my limitations? Should I just stick with the Star Adventurer? What do you think?

Beginners Forum / Advice needed... (eyepieces for a small fast refractor)
« on: December 28, 2017, 11:51:13 PM »
I'm thinking about picking up an AT60ED, but I'm a little lost on eye pieces and what I'll need to attach my DSLR to it. I've got a very very basic understanding of the eye pieces so far. Any direction on a couple threads to read would be appreciated!

Beginners Forum / So embarrassing story...
« on: December 28, 2017, 05:05:37 AM »
My Sky-watcher 12" collapsible dob showed up earlier last week. I was away from home when it arrived so did not really get my hands on it until last Thursday. That morning I carefully followed all the directions to assemble the base and the OTA. And then I eagerly awaited the sun setting so I could try the telescope out, even though it was not collimated (my laser Collimator was order separately along with some ES eye pieces that have yet to arrive).

So as the sun set I took the scope out to the front yard and set it up so it would have a few hours to acclimate. My girls, aged 11 and 13, were excited to try out the new telescope so I let them stay up late and after it was good and dark we headed out to the front yard to see what we could see.  I took off the two dust covers, popped in the 25mm EP to start with, and took a look through the eye piece. I do not see anything....nothing....just a general dark grey.

"Ok don't panic I must have just over looked something...."

Dust covers off? Check
Shipping paper and styrofoam all removed from around mirrors? Check
Can I actually see the mirrors? Check all clear
Can I see the Secondary mirror through the focuser? Check


Ok put everything back together and look through the eye piece grey nothingness....sigh

"Ok girls this is not I do not know you can't see anything through the telescope tonight...I'm sorry."

As you can imagine I was a bit frustrated. So the next day, Friday, I study the assembly instructions again and I seem to have done everything right. It was only after looking at the parts list that I realized what I had done. The parts list had a 2" and a 1.25" eye piece holder listed. When putting everything together I stuck first the 2" EP holder into the focuser and then the 1.25" holder into that. As you can imagine with that setup my eye piece was never going to come into focus no matter how much I turned the wheel on the focuser.

Fortunately I figured it out and we had another clear night on Firday night and took the telescope out for another test run. This time the was!

Mounts Questions & Expirience / Problems with GOTO mounts
« on: December 27, 2017, 07:21:49 PM »
I once owned a Meade 200XL 12". It seems like it would go to stuff "sometimes". Sometimes it would just go to the completely wrong place. Same for a LXD75 that I didn't use much but never could really get it to work right although I didn't really use it more than a couple of times. Didn't feel like selling so it's been in storage for maybe 8-10 years. Took it out recently and the motor started burning smell and stopped working. I think the motor housings were loose.

SOooo .. now I just got a used iOptron mini tower pro.(used) I took it out last night and did a one star align. Then GOTO m42. It went close enough. Centered and selected sync to object which should have been a two star align in essence. Then commaded to go to M1 .. It moved a little to left but I couldn't find in my light polluted sky with my Orion 180mak. Not sure if it was right area or too faint as I don't know the sky that well. So not sure if it was close or not. Tried another align which seemed to get in ball park of a couple stars but sometimes the motor runs but scope no move. The first time I think the alt lock was not tight so motors were just spinning. Also more than once I try to move scope with keypad and sometimes it will only move with 3 of the arrows.. meaning let's say the right arrow key when pressed gets no response. If I turn off and back on or go to another target it will start working. Scratching my head with that as my other mounts did the same thing every now and then.I've tried getting book out and go step by step so thingsare set up right. But the GOTO stuff is starting to get me pretty frustrated as I'm not sure if it's operator error or really something wrong with mounts. I"ve only usedthe iOptron a couple hours so I'll try again. I think I need a better finder too.

Hi guys,

I recently entered (or attempted to) the area of auto-guiding.  After taking astro-photos for a while using a non-auto-guiding bracket and also my dslr + dslr-lenses with great success, I bought a used Bresser EXOS-2 GoTo bracket.
 I want to utilize PHD2 for autoguiding my 81mm APO telescope.  I've some troubles and I would like to ask the experts here in this discussion for information.

 My setup:
Bresser EXOS-2 using Autostar 497 GoTo
William Optics GTF81 APO
Nikon D7100 or Canon EOS 500D mod for imaging
Celestron 12x50 finder range
ZWO ASI 120 MC directing camera
Windows Laptop for directing

The entire load is below 6 kg, the mounts max.  Capability is supposed to be 13 kg.

 The link of this bracket to the computer works fine with Ascom POTH heartbeat (through serial interface to USB).  PHD2 connects to the camera and the mount successfully.

 My process so far:
Leveling the bracket
Balancing the bracket
Raw polar orientation through polar socket
GoTo orientation (3 star)
Starting PHD2
Calibration of PHD using a star near the meridian + celestial equator (rather at the same site of my thing)
Drift alignment to Have a polar aliment mistake below 5" (same star)
If I had to correct the knobs a lot to get the aliment, I do a fresh GoTo alignment
Drive the bracket to the item of choice
Let PHD2 auto-select a star
Start directing

<p style="margin-left:160px">My directing looks like this then:While I am not unhappy with the DEC axis (for certain this can be improved), the RA is completely out of hands.  I played around for 3 nights now using the configurations, occasionally it is a little better, sometimes worse.  But I have some spiking up to 8".

For me it seems to be that PHD2 wants to correct the RA but is constantly overshooting to the other direction then.  I attempted to Decrease the AGR and the MX-RA, also in combination with increasing the MnMo.  I tried a lot of combinations but nothing actually works.

I note also that most of the instances PHD2 attempts to correct the RA extensively, this impacts the DEC axis to move out.

I attempted to balance the bracket a little more hefty towards the telescope aspect that did not change anything.  There are suggestions to balance the mount hefty to the east.  Does that mean that you push to your thing and then balance towards what points to east?

Probable problems:

The majority of the instances I must conduct another calibration in the object of choice, otherwise both axis have a tendency to drift out and PHD2 can not keep them under control, this seems odd to me.  But after calibration at the DEC seems alright.
I am not sure whether I am balancing right.  The DEC axis gets the engine + housing attached, so there's always a burden prejudice to the motor.  Could this be the source of issues?
Also of note: I appear to have a little play in the RA axis.  When pulling/pushing softly in the counterweight bar, there's a tiny movement.  Can this produce problems?

Is there something an obvious mistake which I do?  I don't anticipate an unrealistic perfect directing success with this entry-level bracket, but marginally below 4" ought to be potential or not?
I would be happy to hear some information from you guys.

Best regards and Gr??ezi from Switzerland,

Mounts Questions & Expirience / ES G11 & PMC-8 plus TDM?
« on: December 24, 2017, 05:26:00 PM »
Hello fellow CNN's,

I am thinking about purchasing Explore Scientific's PMC-8 with their version of G11.  It was also said that I would need ES Telescope Drive Master(TDM).  I will use a QHY Polemaster for polar orientation and a Xpress LodeStar X2 for autoguding.  My range will probably be a AT 115EDT or a AT 130EDT APO refractor.  The camera I use is a Sony A6000 (unmodified).

The question I have is will the TDM assist my imaging?  I'd love to perform a great deal of 5 minute exposures or maybe a little longer.  The confusion I have is whether my pictures would be that much better.

If I purchase the G11 and the TDM, would the monitoring performance be as great as say that a AP Mach 1 GTO?

I've been imaging using a 80mm APO on a AVX for approximately a year now.   I imaged using a 11 inch SCT and CGEM DX.

Any help will be appreciated.

Reflectors Telescopes Forum / 10" vrs 12" in small city skies
« on: December 24, 2017, 04:29:44 PM »
So this is my dilema...

I had been going to receive my "final" extent, but decided this time in my viewing is not yet the time. .  So new to it, that I will be bouncing around what I need , which way to go Big Mak, Big Dob....  Determined that I will make that last choice in a couple of years... Once we settled on our Vacation/Retirement house purchase, BUT (big BUT) I'm becoming something to tide me over until then also don't want to. .  How to I say this right. .  Overly upset the spouse on paying a ton for my mid-range purchase while about to go on a 2 week holiday to a distant neighborhood spending a ton for this also... I'm trying to decide between an Orion 10i or the Orion 12i, 900 vrs 1300.  Together with my screening being 90% of my time my backyard with small city skies (Orion constellation comes in sharply with the naked eye).  Can there be that much profit between a 10 and 12 in those skies?

Thanks for anyone's ideas on the gap.

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