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Messages - linghetade

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Reflectors Telescopes Forum / Re: Help with an inherited Telescope
« on: February 09, 2018, 10:32:02 AM »
I received the Reddot Finderscope one day early. I took a lot of pieces that had been on the scope for alignment purposes and placed the finderscope I bought on the telescope. I have a before and after photo I will share on this update to the Frankenscope. Again I thank everyone that has assisted me to this point on the scope. Next thing is to figure out if I need to replace the tripod and the controls. Reading the manuel has helped somewhat but it is still a work in progress.Attached Thumbnails

It's ratherToyota vs Chevy/Ford . Never ever saw any complaints about the HD-60s, but there are quite enough unhappy users of the X-Cel LXs and Paradigms/Starguiders. I have the 6.5mm Meade HD-60 and it's overalljust excellent eyepiece. The HD-60s are slightly more expensive then the other two and that's on purpose, but they are still underpriced, IMO. I doubt the Hyperions which cost ~40% more are so much better.

Eyepieces Questions & Recommendations / Re: Delite left outside for 4 days
« on: February 09, 2018, 07:57:13 AM »
Rice is an excellent, dust-free absorbent for all varieties of items that get wet and shouldn't.


Beginners Forum / Re: nebula/ color
« on: February 09, 2018, 01:29:48 AM »
<p class="citation">QuoteAs to astro images, and particularly of nebulae. Many folk describe them as having the color greatly 'exaggerated' or 'intensified.' Not necessarily. Emission nebulae shine at very discrete wavelengths of line emission, which colors are as pure as can be found. Where a particular color of emission greatly dominates, it will record as quite intense.

Many astro images, particularly the Hubble images are pseudo colors, the colors are assigned to wave lengths far from the visual spectrum. Even if pseudo colors are not used, cameras can capture a much broader spectrum than the human eye so the colors can be captured at wave lengths that are invisible to the eye.

Indeed. They edited the hubble site and removed the part about the images being made, not taken.
The truth can be so disappointing.
But regardless, there are viewable phenominuminums that are way beyond Amebic human explanations, and those are what fascinate me.
No matter what color they appear to be.

General Astronomy & Observing / Re: My, my sky is getting bright!
« on: February 08, 2018, 08:35:14 PM »
hi everyone, this is such a sad, frustrating topic.

I keep reading people saying they're setting up tarps to block light. Is the purpose of this to preserve night vision? I can't see how it could battle light pollution since LP is reducing the contrast of the sky. Or does it help both?

You are an awfully good candidate for a 31mm Nagler. No edge of field astigmatism, though you might see a tiny bit of coma from the scope (tiny).
Well Don, I am taking your advice. My Dad clued me in to a really good deal on a new 31mm T5 Nagler and I just couldn't pass it up. So I will get to make my own evaulation! Thanks for all the input from everyone.

Based on this thread, I figure my 1.5" elliptical secondary is undersized as well, and I will be looking for a replacement 1.75" to 2" secondary and holder. So I get to have fun with both a wonderful new eyepiece, and revamping my old scope to make it work better! Clear Skies!


ATM, Optics and DIY Forum / Re: Remember Dobson
« on: February 02, 2018, 09:58:07 PM »
Wooden shingles wedged in place for spider vanes!

I read about this in some of the Sidewalk Astronomers' things I found online... at the time I just couldn't believe it!

It's amazing how simple it can be to build a telescope, once you know how. I'm a DIY coward, even for a bookshelf I measure everything fifteen times before even starting the job. The lesson to us is, just get on with it!

I think my foul language is reserved for those (thankfully) blessedly rare occasions when I hear the clink of something metallic on concrete or wood or some other hard surface or the times when a battery dies on my DSCs. Of course it's easy enough to switch over to starhopping then. There can also be the unforeseen consequences that arise like high winds winds threatening to knock over expensive equipment that might elicit a profane word or two. Mostly for me it's just a bemused smile of incomprehensible amazement at the immense complexity and diversity of the universe.


Beginners Forum / Re: SCT - narrow FOV
« on: February 02, 2018, 08:21:17 PM »
The answer that question really will depend upon what targets you are more interested in. If you get a larger aperture you will be able to see more details in smaller angular diameter targets (and larger targets too - just maybe not the entire object at once). If you get a smaller aperture refractor you will be able to see some amazing large TFOV views. Both options benefit certain targets more than others. You will have to continue to ask questions and research to sort out which option makes the most sense for you.

There are some very nice advantages to the wide TFOV refractor option:

1. Wide sweeps of the Milky Way if you live in dark skies.
2. Fitting the entire Pleiades, M44, double cluster, etc into a single field of view.
3. Fast cool down time - while your 6" SCT is acclimating to outdoor temps (if there is a temperature difference) an 80mm APO can already be giving you nice views.
4. Portability and easy of set-up. Not that your SCT is hard to set up ... but there is not too much easier to set up than grabbing a small APO on a sturdy tripod in one hand and tossing the desired eyepieces into your pockets and heading out the door. That is the "grab and go" option and it is a nice option to have for those nights when you don't feel up to setting up a bigger scope.

On the value of the refractor, agreed. On tossing my XWs and ZAO IIs into my pockets and heading out the door, no thank you.

The gist of my feeling on this matter is that a refractor mounted on an SCT is a real force multiplier for both scopes.

Greg N

Mounts Questions & Expirience / Re: Mount for beginner astrophotography
« on: February 02, 2018, 04:37:39 PM »
Camera trackers are not a "cheap replacement" for mounts, are small, portable devices for widefield imaging: if you try to use them for other tasks will face quite a challenge.
As Stelios typed before, if are not interested in widefield shots, probably is safer to just skip the tracker; otherwise it can be a very, very nice addition to any setup (visual or imaging) because of diminutive size: I often take with me my smallest trcker even when am setting up for stargazing.

Like many things, this is wildly different for experienced imagers and for those who have never imaged, like the OP.

I have all of the above, and have used them extensively. About 20% of my astrobin was done with a tracker.

They're not a replacement for mounts for an experienced imager. But...

They're a great way for someone who's never imaged to try imaging at a relatively low cost, learn most of the basics, and decide whether they want to go farther. That can make fine images. Pages of them here.


For that purpose, they beat the stuffing out of starting with an inappropriate scope on an inadequate mount, which may be the only alternative for that person.

Say they want to start AP of DSOs, on a budget of $750. The tracker isn't a substitute, it's a better alternative.

Ever try to take a telescope on an airliner when the main purposes of your trip isn't astronomy? Also, ever try to keep a telescope in the desk drawer at the office? My first binocs, some Celestron 7x50s, live in my desk now. They're also superior to the cheapo 6x30 finders most scopes come with for finding DSOs in light polluted skies.

Looks like everybody else nailed the big points.

Purchased a fair amount of items from UO back in the day. They offered an "affordable quality" with their products that definitely appealed to me. Only ever had one small problem and a phone call to them quickly fixed that...very good customer support.

Still use the UO 32mm 2" Konig eyepiece in the 80mm finder on the big Dob. Instead of hard-to-see crosshairs, I glued (with model airplane plastic glue no less) a cut-to-length large-ish sewing needle onto the field stop. The shiny needle is very easy to see, even in the darkest skies. Received more great comments than I can count from people over the years on how incredibly comfortable the 32mm Konig is in use and how well the needle pointer works.

All my best and very sorry to see you go... THANKS UNIVERSITY OPTICS!!!

Reflectors Telescopes Forum / Re: Orion Starblast 6i Intelliscope
« on: January 31, 2018, 07:44:01 AM »
A good comparison scope for a shoot out type of thing might be the Celestron omni 6 in as mentioned in Starman 81's link.  I was going to get it or star blast 6i, and opted for 6i as COL intelliscope.  Just to lazy or dim witted to learn to star hop or hunt. While I'm at it, the Celestron 5in or 6in Nexstar SLT newt slow to slew, car battery or $ batteries, noise just seems to be loud, and I can't see that hand controller without glasses.Those were my determining factors for going with the Starblast 6i.

Beginners Forum / Re: Reducing Chromatic Aberration
« on: January 31, 2018, 04:03:43 AM »
I've found a very useful device for reducing false colour at high magnifications: a Schmidt-Cassegrain telescope. It sits on its own mount, and you look through it instead of the achromat. Works perfectly, and is incredibly effective at eliminating CA.


I am not sure if there's a diode in the power input section of the HEQ-5 to prevent disaster if polarity is reversed. It sounds like there is since nothing seems to be affected, but I don't like pops (and smoke, especially). If it still works, it still works. If not, if it's under warranty just get Orion to fix it.

There darned sure should be a diode there, so don't go beating yourself up. If it's anybody's fault it's Synta's, the people who made the mount. In the dark, especially if you are tired, this sort of thing can happen. Which is why, much has I like Power Poles for my amateur radio equipment, I eschew them for astronomy. The safe way to go is a jump start battery pack and a cigarette lighter plug.

I was looking at the picture of this:

It doesn't appear to have a diode on it? I'm not sure.
If you zoom in on the referenced circuit board in the top right hand corner you will see J1. That's the power connector. Look closely at the trace coming off of pin 1 and it leads to D1, it is also labeled with a "+" symbol. D1 would be the blocking diode. At least that is how I see it.[/quote]
Thank you for the replies. Must the diode be replaced? Or can I still retain all function of the mount without replacing the diode? Also are you referring to this?[/quote]
Yes, D1, again as I see it. If that diode is burned you have 1 options.
You will have to find the specs for that diode, acquire a replacement and solder it in place using a low power solder iron being careful not to cook the trace. A word of warning, if you have never soldered parts onto a circuit board take it to an electronic repair shop.

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